Isabelle de Borchagrave and Paper Dress

Do you remember how you dressed your paper doll with paper dress when you was a child?

When I was a child I loved it. I drew princess dress, evening garments and many other clothes. And then I dress my paper doll. In some way, it looked like this :-)…:

There is someone who remake this children’s entertainment put it on higher level…

Isabelle de Borchgrave was born in 1946 in Etterbeek. She is a prominent Belgian artist and sculptor, She does colorful paintings and intricately painted paper sculptures. She graduated the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Brussels.

After graduating, Isabelle set up her own studio focusing on fashion and interior design. In 1994 began to design paper costumes. The first collection named ‘Papiers à la Mode’ (Fashion Art from Paper), was a collaboration between the artist and Canadian costume designer Rita Brown, covered fashion from Elizabeth I to Coco Chanel.

The collection traveled across the world from 1998 to 2008. And now in 2021, you can admire the Isabelle`s work with me.

It is absolutely unbelievable we are looking at dress made of paper. To make origami is very difficult for me even it is done in small size. Making historical garments … is a little bit larger project …To do such amazing art you need to be very good friend of paper and to know it `s features and quality. A dress, jewellery, headdress, shoes … everything you see is made of paper.

When I look at the dress I can see perfect replicas of historical dress. So the question is: “How the garments are done?”. Isabelle studied painting and drawing so she has very good starting point to paint all the fabric patterns by hand. For painting, an ink is used. After the painting the paper is ironed to archive the texture.

I would like to tou…..

Hey! Do not touch! You may tear the paper! 🙂

Would you like to see more and flip through the nice colorful books? You may obtain one of these three books: Isabelle de Borchgrave: Fashioning Art from Paper, Pulp Fashion: The Art of Isabelle De Borchgrave or very fun and interactive one: Fashion a la Mode: The Pop-Up History of Costumes and Dresses.

For more info click here.

The Museum of Costume and Fashion Florence

It is located in the Palazzina della Meridiana next to the southern wing of Pitti Palace. Founded in 1983 as a result of major acquisitions and public and private donations, today it boasts a collection of more than 6,000 objects that make it one of the most important fashion museums in the world. It traces the history of fashion from the sixteenth century to the present day, with dresses and accessories designed by the major Italian and international designers.

For more details click here: Galleria del Costume, Palazzo Pitti.

I have already visited the gallery and I recommend to visit it. The garments are displayed in showcases to preserve them from the dust and the air. With walking along the dress you will also appreciate beautiful palace saloons and assembly rooms.

Even you will not find hundreds of dress displayed, you may have a look into digital gallery which is available there. You may spend there couple of hours to go thought the photos of the dress and admire detailed photos of embroidery, fabrics and tailoring art. …Enjoy :-)…

Eleanor of Toledo

… a Spanish noblewoman and Duchess of Florence as the first wife of Cosimo I de’ Medici.

Eleanor (11 Jan 1522 – 17 Dec 1562) was born as Doña Leonor Álvarez de Toledo y Osorio. She was the first modern “First Lady” because she financed many of her husband’s political campaigns and buildings like the Pitti Palace. She ruled as regent of Florence during husband’s frequent absences. She also founded many Jesuit churches.

Eleanor`s portraits may give us assumption that she is cold and serious. Now we know that she was sick most of her adulthood. All her health problems were caused by a significant calcium deficiency. We can see her wearing leather glow on her left hand on her later portraits. Also a handkerchief in her hand appears on many of her portraits.

She was very fashion-conscious. Even her dress had simple silhouette with no extravagance embellishments and look very similar to each other, her dress were made of gold and silver weaved fabrics. Her accessories were pearls – she wore pearl necklaces, earrings, headdress. Also her dress – sleeves and partlets are decorated with pearls.

When she was 40 years old, she got sick of malaria and died because of it. Her funeral dress were restored and they are displayed in Galleria del Costume in Florence. The skirt was cut with train and with the bodice is embellished with a lace.

The dress were recreated and the final result you can see on the picture on the right.

Medieval Fantasy Art

History tells us that Medieval Ages were were dark, cruel, wars, hard work and poverty. Even we know this, most of the time we romanticize and fantasize this era. Our fantasies are based on love stories about knights and ladies and troubadour`s love songs. I have to admit that I romanticize Medieval Ages, too.

There are also several painters from the 19th century who transferred their imagination on a canvas. All the paintings are very gentle, soft and dreamy. I have not found any painting with dark colors or representing battle fields. It comes to my mind that all these paintings were paint in the era of Romanticism, but not. All mentioned painters were born after. Anyhow romantic feeling was reborn again at the end of the 19th century.

Edmund Blair Leighton – (21 Sept 1852 – 1 Sept 1922) was an English painter of historical genre scenes. His favorite painting objects were from Medieval and Regency era. He attend to evening classes in South Kensington and then to Heatherley’s School in Newman Street in London. In age of 21, he entered the Royal Academy Schools.

Frank Cadogan Cowper – (16 Oct 1877 – 17 Nov 1958) was an English painter and illustrator of portraits, historical and literary scenes. He first studied art at St John’s Wood Art School in 1896 and then went on to study at the Royal Academy Schools from 1897 to 1902.

John William Waterhouse – (6 Apr 1849 – 10 Feb 1917) was an English painter known for working first in the Academic style and for then embracing the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood’s style. His paintings represent women from ancient Greek mythology and Arthurian legend.

Eleanor Fortescue Brickdale – (25 Jan 1872 – 10 Mar 1945) was an English artist known for her paintings, book illustrations and for a number of works in stained glass.

Haute Couture Inspired by Historical dress

Historical dress are still alive.

It is said that fashion returns. It does not mean that we start to wear corsets or hoop skirts. I just wanted to say that modern fashion is inspired by small elements () of historical dress. Currently there is retro fashion very popular. We recycle fashion from 20th century which we can easily wear on daily basic. Today we will go higher and have a look at Haute Couture fashion stage.

World famous fashion designers take inspiration basically from everywhere and transfer their ideas into master pieces. I am absolutely amazed how big their imagination is and how endless creativity they have.

Let`s explore how fashion designers are able to recreate inspirations from historical dress into (not wearable :-)) High Fashion …

D&G 2019
Elie Saab 2017
McQueen 2013
Guo Pei 2010

Could we transfer these dress into ready to wear clothes?…

Medieval Costume and How to Recreate It

Written by Dorothy Hartley

This book is another one about medieval dress however it has fresh approach. It classifies the clothes and accessories from 12th till 15th century. You can read about the wardrobe of nobility and peasants also. The book contains descriptions, photos, painting sculptures and illustrations too.

Along with pictures, the book brings clear drawings showing silhouettes and fabric cutting, placement of seams, draping and folding garments. The illustrations are very good guide for recreating Medieval garments.

This book can be very valuable for those who are interested also in dressing of for example peasants. You can find here also clothes for sports, travelers or children for which the information is more difficult to obtain. Even the book has just 140 pages, it is complex and can be your good friend.

Enjoy 🙂

Dressing Children in Renaissance

When I was looking for any Renaissance dress on internet, my eye caught a portrait of a little girl in a dress silhouette as adults have. And suddenly I was interested in to look for more children’s portraits. At first I was very amazed that little children, even in age of one are dressed as adults … I am asking myself why …

Little children, specially from royal families or aristocratic families, were prepared and taught to behave as adults right from their childhood. Their parents wanted to have the right heir and successor to the throne or the head of the family. There was not much space to play around with other children. The education and good manners were on the first place. Also it needed to be shown to the public that the child was born to aristocratic or royal family.

One small interesting was that little boys were dress as the girls … “the boy worn in dress” …? Why was that? There was one reason. As a male was always the heir of the family name (and also fortune), a female had to married. He needed to be hidden from murderers and kidnappers and the best solution was to pretend that a girl was born.

Another interesting thing I have noticed were folded skirts on girl`s dress. My personal opinion is that the dress were made longer to be worn for more than a few months. Children and teenagers tend to grow fast and when a girl get higher the skirt could be unfolded and the dress could be worn for another year.

Would you like to dress your child as an adult?

Romance expressed by a dress

When and how we started to feel romance?

What come to your mind when think about romance. Are they flowers, red hearts or night sky full of stars?..

When did we acknowledged romance as part of our lives? In general we long for nice and pleasant things after difficult times. What about Medieval Age? We know it as Dark Age. It was full of wars, poverty and poor water quality. And Renaissance? It was better part of human kind, of course. But what about Spanish Inquisition? Than … Baroque and Rococo … nice however monumental and heavy decorated. And after that … Romanticism comes …

The Napoleonic campaign across Europe evoked in people a desire for peace and nature. Romanticism was a reaction to Industrial Revolution and social norms. Romanticism got into all parts of the art – literature, music, architecture and fine art. Did it also effect a fashion?…

As we know the fashion also reacts to social-political events also. The 19th century really brings a space to all the women to dress with romantic style. How the romantic style can be recognized?…

Romantic dress looks very gently, softly, fragile and delicate. The dress can look romantic not just by the style, but also by the colors and used fabrics. Romantic colors are bright, pastel and cooler, for example white, light pink, light blue or lavender. Romantic fabrics are light, transparent, with lace or delicate embroidery.

…and we should not forget about flowers …

… nice smiles and gentle touches …

Theodor Pištěk – Costume Designer

Oscar winner for costume design for the movie Amadeus

Theodor Pištěk (born 25 October 1932 in Prague) is a Czech costume designer, set designer. His film set costumes are known internationally.

Theodor is not just costume designer, he has also other talents, he does paintings, reliefs and conceptual installations.

Theodor`s achievements are impressive – he is Oscar winner 1985, he received Cesar award 1990, Czech Lion Award for Unique Contribution to Czech Film 2003, Crystal Globe for Outstanding Artistic Contribution to World Cinema 2013, the Golden Slipper for Outstanding Contribution to Films for Children and Young People 2017.

First to be mentioned from Theodor`s work is the movie Amadeus, for which he won an Oscar. This spectacular movie was directed by Miloš Forman. Everybody knows a genius Amadeus Mozart, his music, life, demons and madness. (And we also know Miloš Forman movies, so there is nothing more to expect but excellent art piece.)

Valmont – Cesar award and two award nominees. This is another example of cooperation between Miloš Forman and Theodor Pištěk. The movie was filmed based on a novel Dangerous Liaisons by Pierre Choderlos de Laclos which was viewed as scandalous book at the time of its initial publication.

There are many very critical point of views on the costumes of both movies. I have other opposite feelings. And why? Because … both movies were filmed 30 years ago and in that time there was not much focus on historical costume accuracy. Another thing is the budget. Based on finances the director may decide what the focus will be – the story, atmosphere or visual aspect. And the last thing is that those who do not have much knowledge about historical clothes will not be aware of mistakes :-).

I have also one small bonus for you…

Dune mini series – you may be surprised I selected fantasy movie. Yes, I did. Creating fantasy costumes is also big sun. And it can please your eyes also 😉

Do you also design any costumes for yourself? 🙂