A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion

What a mushroom hat is?

Is it this one?

NOOO!!!

I would advice you to have a look into s dictionary….What I mean exactly?…

A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion (Historic and Modern)

What stays in this dictionary about mushroom hat?

Hat with downward cured brim shaped like mushroom or toadstool, sometimes wider at sides.

And how it looks like?

Just like this:

What about other fashion expressions?….You can look them up in Dictionary of Fashion…..

Each fashion term is described and some of them has simple black and white picture.

You can also look up for types of stitches:

The dictionary contains also black and white painting pictures:

Would you like to know how silhouette developed through the centuries?

This dictionary contains much more, for example fairy tail or national costumes….(if you are interested …)

What fashion expression you do not know what means?

Reconstructing history

Do you ask yourself: “Where to get sewing pattern of historical dress?”

My answer is: “There is more than one source where to find them.”

The most complex source of historical pattern is company based in Netherlands named Reconstructing history. The company was founded by Kass McGann since 1997. Among selling products include historical dress sewing patterns from medieval age to 20th century (including underwear and accessories), embroidery patterns, books and other dress patterns.

It is amazing to have sewing patterns in hand however…..do we understand them? If you have doubts or you want to learn more, you can visit a blog which is a part of the web site.

One of the blog posts of Reconstructing history

I have already bought some of the sewing patterns and one e-book. I may say I was very satisfied with the service. The company is very customer friendly. I highly recommend to visit this web site and read testimonials of other customers.

Another thing I have to mention it that you may buy sewing patterns either in paper or in digital form (perfect idea).

Are you ready to pick a dress and start to sew?

Victoria – Fashion Magazine

What purchase makes you excited?

A few days ago I passed around my second-hand bookshop and looked into the window. And I found a treasure – fashion magazine “Victoria“.

To be precise, fashion magazines Victoria from 1869 to 1876 :-0, published in Berlin.

Let me present you VICTORIAIllustrated pattern and fashion newspaper. Even each magazine has eight pages only, it is full of dress, hairstyle, hand-made crafts, accessories and home design and more. The magazine includes many black and white pictures with their descriptions. Let`s sneak peek together.

Women dress design:

Hair dress:

Accessories:

Shoes:

Hand-made crafts:

Underwear:

Swim suite:

Childrens` dress:

Carnival childrens` dress:

Home decor:

Do you know other historical fashion magazines?

Charles Frederick Worth (1825 – 1895)

When Haute Couture alias High Fashion started?

19th century brings revolution in fashion business and mass production. During this time English gentleman Mr. Worth established his own enterprise in Rue de la Paix in Paris – “House of Worth“:

House of Worth

Mr. Worth is considered to be Father of Haute Couture. Worth`s customers is European royalty such and Princess Pauline Metternich, Queen Victoria and Empress Eugenie.

His designed dresses are exhibited in Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York:

As it is seen, the skirts have narrow shape. After wearing a large size crinoline, Worth redesigned it to be more practical which was his major success.

Shocking and radical was skirt shortening to ankles :-O. Why? Because Empress Eugenie enjoyed long walks :-)……. and walking dress were created:

What would you change in current fashion?

Cathy Hay and her projects

Have you ever did big challenging project?

I would really like to meet Cathy Hay in person as she is one of the most inspiring lady among historical dress sewing communities.

WHY?

  1. Besides doing demanding projects, she brings support and motivates to sew historical dress on YouTube channel named “Cathy Hay” :-).

2. Cathy started to reconstruct Peacock dress worn by Lady Curzon. To show her progress with the project she started to write a blog “The Peacock Dress“. Do YOU have a courage to start reconstructing this dress?

3. Founder of award-winning sewing community “Your Wardrobe Unlock`d“. This community helps to create very ambitions sewing projects. There are also mentors such as Luca Costigliolo, Barbara Pesendorfer and Lowana O’Shea who will help you to achieve your dreams.

4. Your wardrobe unlock`d is connected with “Foundation Revealed“. It is a private interactive community, with mentor support and monthly live workshops. The site contains also members` works and results of competitions. The most of the projects are oriented to corset making.

1890s corset by Michelle Fitzgerald

Are you now motivated to start your dream project?

Romeo and Juliet

Do you like Shakespeare?

A classic Shakespeare`s romance tragedy about Romeo and Juliet has many film adaptations. One of them is movie from 1968 staring Olivia Hussey and Leonard Whiting. Costume design was done by Danilo Donati.

The story was written during the last decade of 16th century. It is set in Verona, Italy. So it is reasonable to place the movie into Italian renaissance era :-).

The costume designer could be inspired by the painting by Vittore Carpaccio from 1495 – Meeting of the Betrothed Couple (detail). The red dress with V-shaped bodice, cut under breasts, ruffled skirt and fitted sleeves bind to bodice are very suitable for young Juliet.

Do you want a kiss?

Stripes in medieval age?

Unbelievable, but YES!!!!!

14th century brings us beginning of fashion and also it`s restrictions. Noble men issued a law to prevent rich merchants and bourgeoisie to wear certain clothing and status symbols.

For example “Pedro El Cruel in 1351 specified that women companions of the clergy were required by law to use striped fabric for their gown“. (Source: Greenwood Encyclopedia of clothing through world history)

Tomb of Don Sancho Saiz de Carillo

Do you like to wear the stripes?

Regency women’s dress – Cassidy Percoco

Who would not love Jane Austen era?

The book “Regency women`s dress” shows dress patterns from 1800 to 1830. There are 26 patterns of morning dress, evening dress, ball gowns. Also it includes patterns of chemise, corset, spencers and coats.

Firstly, each dress is shortly described and illustrated. Cassidy provides very useful information about fabrics, lining, embroidery, hems, dress structure and sewing techniques.

Next two pages shows pattern in grid. As it is one size pattern, it requires small effort to resize it to be fitted for you.

Even the book time period is short, I recommend to have it in your bookshelf. It is very good reference for all who sew regency dress.

Which of Jane Austen books do you like most?

Isabella of Portugal (1503 – 1539)

What was Isabella`s fashion style?

Isabella was Queen of Spain and Queen Regent in absence of her husband. She was married for Charles V.

The most famous painting was done by Titian (the 1st pic.) and finished after her death in 1548 .

Based on available paintings Isabella`s favorite dress were in brown, red and black color. Most of the dress had angel sleeves – long, wide sleeve, flowing loosely from the shoulders.

The angel sleeves are stitched in few places to make white chemise visible underneath.

If you are interested in TV series watch Carlos, Rey Emperador. It is about Isabella`s life and her husband Charles V.

Do you like Isabella`s style?

Medieval embroidered bag

Did medieval women wear a purse? Of course they did.

One of the bag styles was an embroidered bag. For example, as this one below:

Source here.

Medieval bags were smaller comparing to modern times. They needed them to have coins on hand. Other things of daily use such as keys, rosary or comb were hanging on their belt.

Brick stitch” was common stitching style in 14th-15th century.

Source here

Let`s make a bag for ourselves.

To make my bag, I used white even-weave linen cloth (can be also known as canvas), embroidery cottons – greens, yellow, white, blue and red, also red cotton fabric for lining.

Supplies

Feeling of success will bring you being patient while embroidery. It may take dozens of hours to count the threads to embroider the squares. (Unfortunately, I do not have a record of my time spent :-((.) However I was still motivated to finish the bag. Here is the outcome:

Have YOU already embroidered historical bag?

Let me know more about your project.