Isabelle de Borchagrave and Paper Dress

Do you remember how you dressed your paper doll with paper dress when you was a child?

When I was a child I loved it. I drew princess dress, evening garments and many other clothes. And then I dress my paper doll. In some way, it looked like this :-)…:

There is someone who remake this children’s entertainment put it on higher level…

Isabelle de Borchgrave was born in 1946 in Etterbeek. She is a prominent Belgian artist and sculptor, She does colorful paintings and intricately painted paper sculptures. She graduated the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Brussels.

After graduating, Isabelle set up her own studio focusing on fashion and interior design. In 1994 began to design paper costumes. The first collection named ‘Papiers à la Mode’ (Fashion Art from Paper), was a collaboration between the artist and Canadian costume designer Rita Brown, covered fashion from Elizabeth I to Coco Chanel.

The collection traveled across the world from 1998 to 2008. And now in 2021, you can admire the Isabelle`s work with me.

It is absolutely unbelievable we are looking at dress made of paper. To make origami is very difficult for me even it is done in small size. Making historical garments … is a little bit larger project …To do such amazing art you need to be very good friend of paper and to know it `s features and quality. A dress, jewellery, headdress, shoes … everything you see is made of paper.

When I look at the dress I can see perfect replicas of historical dress. So the question is: “How the garments are done?”. Isabelle studied painting and drawing so she has very good starting point to paint all the fabric patterns by hand. For painting, an ink is used. After the painting the paper is ironed to archive the texture.

I would like to tou…..

Hey! Do not touch! You may tear the paper! 🙂

Would you like to see more and flip through the nice colorful books? You may obtain one of these three books: Isabelle de Borchgrave: Fashioning Art from Paper, Pulp Fashion: The Art of Isabelle De Borchgrave or very fun and interactive one: Fashion a la Mode: The Pop-Up History of Costumes and Dresses.

For more info click here.

Eleanor of Toledo

… a Spanish noblewoman and Duchess of Florence as the first wife of Cosimo I de’ Medici.

Eleanor (11 Jan 1522 – 17 Dec 1562) was born as Doña Leonor Álvarez de Toledo y Osorio. She was the first modern “First Lady” because she financed many of her husband’s political campaigns and buildings like the Pitti Palace. She ruled as regent of Florence during husband’s frequent absences. She also founded many Jesuit churches.

Eleanor`s portraits may give us assumption that she is cold and serious. Now we know that she was sick most of her adulthood. All her health problems were caused by a significant calcium deficiency. We can see her wearing leather glow on her left hand on her later portraits. Also a handkerchief in her hand appears on many of her portraits.

She was very fashion-conscious. Even her dress had simple silhouette with no extravagance embellishments and look very similar to each other, her dress were made of gold and silver weaved fabrics. Her accessories were pearls – she wore pearl necklaces, earrings, headdress. Also her dress – sleeves and partlets are decorated with pearls.

When she was 40 years old, she got sick of malaria and died because of it. Her funeral dress were restored and they are displayed in Galleria del Costume in Florence. The skirt was cut with train and with the bodice is embellished with a lace.

The dress were recreated and the final result you can see on the picture on the right.

Dressing Children in Renaissance

When I was looking for any Renaissance dress on internet, my eye caught a portrait of a little girl in a dress silhouette as adults have. And suddenly I was interested in to look for more children’s portraits. At first I was very amazed that little children, even in age of one are dressed as adults … I am asking myself why …

Little children, specially from royal families or aristocratic families, were prepared and taught to behave as adults right from their childhood. Their parents wanted to have the right heir and successor to the throne or the head of the family. There was not much space to play around with other children. The education and good manners were on the first place. Also it needed to be shown to the public that the child was born to aristocratic or royal family.

One small interesting was that little boys were dress as the girls … “the boy worn in dress” …? Why was that? There was one reason. As a male was always the heir of the family name (and also fortune), a female had to married. He needed to be hidden from murderers and kidnappers and the best solution was to pretend that a girl was born.

Another interesting thing I have noticed were folded skirts on girl`s dress. My personal opinion is that the dress were made longer to be worn for more than a few months. Children and teenagers tend to grow fast and when a girl get higher the skirt could be unfolded and the dress could be worn for another year.

Would you like to dress your child as an adult?

Renaissance trims – part 1

Choosing correct dress embellishments.

Have you ever had a problem to choose correct trim for your renaissance dress or even to to buy the most accurate one? I have to admit that I had this problem and still have. I have spent many hours on the internet and in the shops and I have found just poor imitations of real historical trims.

I am very fond of renaissance trims and I decided to have a closed look on renaissance paintings and re-draw the details. With this I would like to make a sampler to help me and you with recreating renaissance dress in the future :-).

Trim #1 – golden and silver:

Trim #2 – golden, silver and light pink:

Trim #3 – black and golden:

We will continue in part 2…

Dolls and Historical Costumes

Childhood linked with my adult obsession.

The most significant doll in history is “Lady Barbie” which is with us over 60 years. As a “doll fashion icon“, she has extensive wardrobe. It contains ready to wear, sport wear, movie costumes, evening gowns… and… my favorite ones… historical costumes. There are also other “Lady Dolls” which have historical wardrobe also.

It is marvelous how detailed these small garments are done. Barbie doll is approximately 30 cm tall (11 inches) what can make sewing very small sizes quite challenging :-). Most of the sewing needs to be done by hand and using a glue is also required. You will be in need of enough time, a lot of patience, good eyes and gently hands.

Do you have any cloth left-overs to make a smaller version of your favorite historical dress?

Morgan Donner

Historical Sewing, Research, and Shenanigans

I found Morgan on YouTube, where she has her own channel. She shows her own historical projects. Morgan is a self-taught maker of historical garments and I have learnt from her that there is not need to fear learning new skill and craft. The majority of her projects are pre-1600`s. You may follow her also on her web site www.morgandonner.com.

Morgen has other projects than sewing the garments. It is for example making lace, leather case or fingerloop braid, which are absolutely amazing.

I was inspired by her tutorial to make St. Birgitta cap which I tried to reconstruct also.

And this is my result 🙂 and I am very pleased how it turned out:

You may follow Morgan also on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter.

Who has inspired you lately?

White dress

What does it represent? …

… an innocence at first … like a white Lilly …

The white cloth was used thousands years ago, for a bedding, for an underwear, for a table cloth. The advantage of white cloths is that you do not need any natural or artificial fabric colors. Regarding wearing white dress, first what come to my mind is Antique fashion – in Egypt and Greece.

Medieval age does not bring any white outer dress. You may find many “white medieval dress” on the internet however these are much more fantasy “reproductions”. When you look at the Medieval paintings you do not see much white dress if any. You may find light colors or silver – brocade fabric…

We may find more white dress from Renaissance era up to the present days:

There was not common thing to dress white dress on your wedding day. It’s generally known that Queen Victoria was the first bride who worn white dress.

There is also well known painting of Sissi (Elizabeth of Bavaria) wearing white dress with white jewellery flowers in her hair.

My favorite white dress are made of Madeira fabric like this one. There are lovely, are not they?

Do you like to wear a white dress?

Too much and too little

An exaggerated and a simple dress

Fashion still brings new forms of dressing up and new tailoring challenges. The fashion is of course influenced by the social, economical and technological environment.

We will set a time frame we will focus on. Let`s set it to Europe from Medieval Age to the end of 19th century. The clothing during 20th century has changed so much and will not talk about it in this post 🙂 (it is another story).

What is too much?…. In my point of view it can be heavy embroidery, many pieces of jewellery, wide skirt, meters of lace, brocade …

What is too little?… For sure it is simple straight silhouette, one color fabric, not much layering …

What about to wear a white T-shirt and a blue jeans now? … :-))

Marguerite De Valois

Two Queens in one person

Marguerite lived between 1553 and 1615. She was born to very powerful French royal couple – the king Henry II De Bourbon and the queen Catherine de Medici. She married to Henry IV of France and was Queen of Navarre 1572 and Queen of France 1589. Quite impressive, is not it?

Let`s have a look on her fashion style:

In her adolescence age Marguerite`s style more “simpler”. The dress had T shaped trims on the bodice decorated with white pearls.

As the years passed, her dress became more embellished. And her love to red color is quite obvious :-).

These two portraits show her exaggeratedly decorated garments.

Many portraits show upper part of the body and we do not see how the skirts looked like. Here are some options.

We know that her life was a little bit scandalous … and inspired William Shakespeare and Alexandre Dumas to write a comedy Love’s Labour’s Lost and a novel La Reine Margot.

French fashion never disappoints. Do you agree?